Saturday, September 21, 2013

San Gennaro: Little Italy's Last Resort



It's that time of year again folks. The smell of Sausage and Peppers is in the air. All of downtown is in a traffic lock. New Yorkers with fake Italian accents are trying to get you into their Mulberry Street restaurants. Cannolis are being sold for 6 bucks a piece. Paella is being sold at an Italian festival. Snooki and the cast of Jersey Shore grace all memorabilia.
Probably not a real Italian.
I can only be talking about the one and only San Gennaro Festival. The feast of all feasts (in existence for 87 years) that has truly turned from an Italian's paradise into an overpriced non-authentic stereotype that's too strong even for me to bare. This due to the fact that I am part Italian and actually enjoy this aspect of my very multicultural heritage. What used to be the crowned gem of Lower Manhattan has been taken over by a much larger Chinatown and Soho with people that aren't really Italian. This isn't to say they shouldn't still celebrate this feast and all that it does have to offer, but over the years that I have attended I have just found myself more disappointed with what it puts out into the world. Mozzarella Pies? I could get that a regular old carnival. Six dollar desserts? I could go to my local Italian bakery and get just as good ones for much cheaper. And why in the world are you selling Spanish Paella at an Italian Festival?? Trying to fool those who are ignorant? I get that this is, in a way, a tourist trap of sorts now, but I just wish it could still represent what it set out to do years ago when it started: show people the true nature of Italian food, culture, and the people. And essentially be a religious tribute to San Gennaro instead of a food coma block party (for all you heathens ruining the world out there). Please know I'm joking because I love me a good food coma.

The best part about being Italian
Although I sound like I've been sippin of some San Gennaro haterade, there are some gems left in this quaint part of town that can still be worth your while. Not that San Gennaro is not. I would say it's worth it just to see, but you may or may not want to return. Depending how much money you think a great Sausage and Peppers and cannoli are worth (Answer: not an extreme amount). Also do not assume that the authentic Italian way is what is being portrayed, because again, a lot of it is just touristy stereotypes (Jersey Shore being reason enough).

Ferrara Bakery & Cafe- This famous Little Italy spot was founded in 1892 when the gangs of the New York mafioso ran the streets. Ah to be alive then. Located on Grand Street between Mulberry and Motts, I hope this place can continue to stay afloat for the long run. I have had some desserts here and I have to say, they are quite good. Would I say world famous good?? Let's not get ahead of ourselves here. But I'm also not easily impressed (as I'm sure you can tell from this entire blog). The cannoli was quite good, typical level of pastry to cream filling ratio, not too much and not too little. I also had the opportunity to taste what is known as a Baba Ricotta, which is a rum soaked brioche filled with cannoli cream filling. I am NOT a fan of these. The rum taste was and always is farrr too much for my taste buds, but if you are a beaming alcoholic by all means, go for it. Also they usually always have a stand at the festival, which would be worth attempting if the line wasn't leading you towards the Empire State Building.

Umberto's Clam House-Oh you know, pretty famous since it's been featured a lot in the Sopranos. This institution of Italian seafood was first opened in 1972, and has become a tourist destination (trap) ever since. Obviously located on Mulberry Street, this place is best known for their clams, in any form. I actually have never been here, so you are probably angry that I'm writing about it. But hey, I gotta give you somethingg that isn't a negative portrayal of this neighborhood, right? Right. Oh, and I LOVE baked clams, so I'm sure this would satisfy my needs. Actually, I'm more than sure.

Parm-Surprise! I've never been here either. But I hear beyond GREAT things and must go ASAP so sorry I'm not sorry. These are just recommendations of recommendations ok? Believe in the power of Yelp. and Google. And obviously the lazy blogger. Also located on Mulberry Street (duh, there's only one block left in Little Italy), this place even has an outpost in Yankee Stadium! So you KNOW it's good. A member of the major Italian food enterprise Torrisi, Parm has what is obviously supposed to be the best chicken parm/eggplant parm (my perosnal fav), meatball parm, etc. on a roll/hero. Even Elvis Duran of Z100 loves this place, and if that isn't worth your while, I do not what is my friend. Talking about this is making my mouth salivate.

So there you have it. Little Italy and the San Gennaro Festival. Really the last resort for what Little Italy truly has to offer. Ironically, speaking about the authenticity of this festival has led me to my least authentic and lazy entry to date. I NEVER write about foods from specific places I have yet to try, so I'm sorry? But I am part Italian. and I have had many baked clams. And Chicken parms. And meatballs. And eggplant. Ok you get the point. Maybe I shouldn't be so honest, you may not come back to see me. PLEASE COME BACK. I'll come back to my roots, I promise.